中國是世界茶樹的發(fā)源地，中國茶不僅歷史豐富悠久，而且品種繁多。茶葉經(jīng)歷藥用、食用到飲用，經(jīng)歷了幾千年的歷史，到了明末清初，各大茶類工基本定型，形成今天的六大茶類。理論上，同樣的葉子竟然可以加工成不同的茶葉，擁有不同的顏色、不同的形狀、不同的香氣和不同的滋味，這也太神奇了。因此，引來了一個問題，我們是如何分類茶葉的?通過顏色?還是氧化程度?別擔(dān)心，我們今天來一起尋找到答案。
China is the source of tea, owns the richest tea history, produces the most diversified types of tea in the whole world. Tea was taken used as medicine, then food, and then beverage finally. The six types of tea were completed in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, it's amazing how could the same leaves been processed into different teas with different colors, different shapes, different aromas, and different tastes. Here comes another question, how do we classify tea? By colors or oxidization degree? Don't worry, let's figure them out today!
中國茶歷史悠久，但中國的現(xiàn)代茶學(xué)教育卻還年輕。它發(fā)起于二十世紀(jì)初，其中最重要的始創(chuàng)之一就是陳椽教授。他于1908年出生于福建省。他終身致力于茶教育和茶產(chǎn)業(yè)的發(fā)展。他的一生完成并出版了無數(shù)著名的茶學(xué)專著和文章，如《茶葉通史》、《茶葉加工》、《茶葉種植》、《茶葉檢驗》、《茶葉商品學(xué)》。然而，遺憾的是，《茶葉化學(xué)》一書出版于2002年，即1999年他過世3年后。
Chinese tea has a very long history，while modern Tea Science is quite young. It was started in the early 20 century, one of the leading founders was professor Chen Chuan(1908-1999). who was born in 1908 in Fujian province. He had spent his whole time on tea education and tea industry. During his whole life, he finished and published lots of important and famous books and articles, for example, All The Tea in China, Tea Processing, Tea Cultivation, Tea Laboratory Science, Economics of Tea. However, it’s a pity that the book of Tea Chemistry was published in 2002, 3 years later than he passed away in 1999.
陳椽教授的另外一個成就就是《茶葉分類的理論與實踐》。在那之前，茶葉分類系統(tǒng)一片混亂，混淆不清，他們簡單地把茶根據(jù)”發(fā)酵“度發(fā)來，比如日本。直到1979年，經(jīng)過多年的研究，他將茶葉分類成了六類：綠茶、紅茶、黃茶、白茶、青茶(烏龍茶)和黑茶。這也是為什么現(xiàn)在仍然有人認(rèn)為普洱茶是黑茶，正是因為這套分類理論。陳椽教授根據(jù)加工工藝和品質(zhì)特點分類茶葉，換句話說，茶葉的品質(zhì)特點取決于工藝。這套茶葉分類體系學(xué)術(shù)知識淵博且科學(xué)系統(tǒng)，因此被米歇爾，法國中國史學(xué)專家，翻譯成英文，并很快發(fā)表在法國權(quán)威雜志(法國植物生物史專刊)上。
Professor Chen Chuan's other achievement is the Tea Classification in Theory and Practice. Before that, tea classification is a mess or confusing, they simply classified tea by “fermentation” degree, like in Japan. Until in 1979，after years of studying, he classified tea into six types of tea: green tea, black tea, yellow tea, white tea, oolong tea, and dark tea. That's why even now there are still someones think pu-erh tea belongs to dark tea because of this classification. Professor Chen Chuan classified tea based on the processing methods and characteristic qualities, which means that different processing results in different qualities. The tea classification was so knowledgeable and scientific that Michael Salt, the French Chinese history expert, translated it into English edition, and published it very soon in the famous French Journal(Journal d' Agriculture Traditionnelle et de Botanique Appliquee).
《茶葉分類的理論與實踐》
然而，正如文中摘要所述，當(dāng)時“這還是一個在中國需要進(jìn)一步辯證的非確定的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)分類”。所以，接下來在80年代和90年代，在所有茶教育者的共同努力下，最終，茶被分成了三大類。第一大類為初加工(基礎(chǔ))茶類，它們是綠茶、白茶、黃茶、紅茶、烏龍茶和黑茶;第二大類是再加工茶類，比如普洱茶、袋泡茶、香薰茶、抹茶等;第三類為深加工茶類，如速溶茶、茶飲料等。
However, just like the Abstract mentions, “it is a project under discussion and not yet an acknowledged norm in China" at that time. So later on in the 1980s and 1990s, with the efforts of all the tea educators, finally, tea is classified into three categories. The first one is the basic type of tea, they are green tea, white, yellow tea, black tea, oolong tea, and dark tea; The second category is reprocessed tea, like pu-erh, bag tea, scented tea, matcha and so on; The third one is further processed tea, like instant tea, tea beverage.
三者之間的區(qū)別是什么呢?基本茶類是經(jīng)過一系列的連續(xù)工藝加工而成的，這可能需要十幾個小時，兩天，又或者數(shù)天，如黑茶。而再加工茶類的原料則是這六大基本茶類，但我們?nèi)匀豢梢娙~茶，或碎茶，甚至是茶粉和超微粉。深加工茶是現(xiàn)代產(chǎn)品，你看不見任何茶葉，但是能聞到并嘗出茶葉的味道。
What are the differences between the three categories?Basic types of tea are been through a series of continuous processing steps, that take within one day, two days, or a few days, like dark tea. And reprocessed tea is processed from the basic types of tea, but you are still able to see either whole leaves, or broken leaves, even dust, fine powder, like matcha. Further processed tea is a modern tea product, you can not see any leaves but can smell and taste tea's flavor.值得注意到是，歷史上普洱茶被誤判為黑茶(點擊了解更多)，但普洱茶不是黑茶(點擊了解更多)!
Please pay attention to that Pu-erh tea was initially classified into dark tea due to the piling fermentation and the lack of visibility in history(please click here to learn more), and Pu-erh tea(puer tea) is not any kind of dark tea due to the different species, areas, processings and features(click here to learn it more)!
除了學(xué)術(shù)上的分類，還有一些其他的分類原則。比如原產(chǎn)地、生產(chǎn)時間、海拔、形狀、氧化程度、歷史地位，甚至是銷售市場。這里要注意氧化和發(fā)酵兩個術(shù)語，我們會在將來的課程中繼續(xù)學(xué)習(xí)。
Besides the academic classification, there are other classification principles as well. Like by origins, production time, altitude, shape, oxidation degree, historic tea, even target market. Here，please pay attention to the term: oxidation and fermentation, we are going to learn about that in the near lesson, OK!
中國茶品種繁多，恐怕只有葡萄酒才能與之媲美了。葡萄酒的分類系統(tǒng)大致有原產(chǎn)地分級系統(tǒng)、釀造工藝和方法、殘?zhí)呛亢筒烧攴?、以及葡萄品種等，且因為不同的國家或者地區(qū)而已，當(dāng)然也會與時俱進(jìn)，不斷的完善。
Chinese tea is vast in diversified types, as many types as wine.The classification of wine can be done according to various methods including place of origin or appellation, vinification methods, and style, sweetness, and vintage, or variety used. Practices vary in different countries and origins, and many of them have varied over time although.
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①按照最新的原產(chǎn)地分級系統(tǒng)可分為: 法國酒、地區(qū)酒以及法定產(chǎn)區(qū)酒(過渡期間舊的四級分級系統(tǒng)仍然沿用)。 需要注意的是，這個分級系統(tǒng)和波爾多1855年的酒莊分級是完全兩個不同的系統(tǒng)。
①the new rules classify wine into three-level: Vin de France, IGP, AOP(meanwhile the old classification is still valid within some years). And it is significantly different from the Classification of 1855 in Bordeaux.
②根據(jù)釀造工藝，有紅葡萄酒(很多國人用紅酒代替了所有的葡萄酒)、白葡萄酒、桃紅葡萄酒、起泡葡萄酒、甜酒、加強(qiáng)型葡萄酒。
②According to the vinification methods, there is red wine(most Chinese mistake red wine as all the types of wine), white wine, rose, sparkling wine, dessert wine and fortified wine.
③根據(jù)釀造方法所得到的瓶內(nèi)的壓力還可以分為靜止酒和起泡酒;
③According the pressure (injection of carbon dioxide), there is sparkling wine and still wine.
④根據(jù)殘?zhí)呛靠梢苑譃楦尚?< 4g/L)、半干型(< 4-12g/L)、半甜型(< 12-45g/L)和甜型(> 45g/L)(香檳略有不同，分為：自然干、超天然、天然、極干、干型、半干和甜型)。
④According to the sweetness, there is dry wine, semi-dry, semi-sweet, and sweet wine(champagne is classified as: Brut Nature, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Dry, Demi-Sec and Doux ).
⑤年份對于葡萄酒是比較重要的，常有大年，小年之說。根據(jù)采摘年份分為年份酒和無年份酒。
⑤Vintage is considered to be important to wine as usual. A vintage wine is one made from grapes that were all, or primarily, grown in a single specified year, and are accordingly dated on the label.
⑥葡萄品種分類就更加紛繁復(fù)雜了，主要的葡萄品種有赤霞珠、梅洛、品麗珠、黑皮諾、馬爾貝克、西拉、歌海娜、霞多麗、長相思、雷司令、瓊瑤漿等等，常見的為混釀的葡萄酒，其中，只有某一種葡萄酒所占比例超過85%才能將其品種標(biāo)注在酒標(biāo)上，如霞多麗、赤霞珠等。
⑥Regarding the varieties, there are over 1000 grape varieties, and the main ones are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, pinot noir, malbec, syrah, grenache, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, Riesling, gewurztraminer. A varietal wine is a wine made from a dominant grape a minimum of 85% such as a Chardonnay or a Cabernet Sauvignon and labeled by the name of the grape variety, however, the blending wine is more common.
來源： 普洱雜志
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