【雨林古茶坊】“歪果仁”眼中的雨林茶山行

Experiencing RainForest's Tea Tour in March
雨林3月茶山行體驗之旅
 
Walkingthrough tea mountains is an inspired experience which I love so much, so Ijoined the tea tour organized by Rain Forest, a well- establishedtea company built in 2012. Since I go to tea mountains often, the otherreason why I joined them was to learn standard processing. I heard lots ofrumors about Rain Forest, half good and half bad news before starting to XiShuang Ban Na. 穿越茶山是一個非常棒的體驗,我非常喜歡。在我啟程去西雙版納學習之前,我聽到過很多關(guān)于雨林的謠言,好壞參半。雨林是一家專業(yè)做茶的公司,公司建于2012年。自從我常上茶山,吸引我加入了茶山行的一個原因是向他們學習標準化處理。
I also invited otherfriends, including 8 adults and 2 kids, and Nicoline comes from Norway. Thenext day after I applied this tea tour via my friend who runs one Rain Forestchain store, the employee contacted me for more details and inquire specialrequirements like food or religion, in order to arrange accommodation, whichimpressed me well.  這一次,我還邀請我的朋友,8個大人和2個孩子,Nicoline來自挪威。我印象特別好的地方在于,通過加盟雨林的朋友報名茶山行的第二天,雨林的員工聯(lián)系我,確認行程、安排住宿、更多的細節(jié)和特殊要求,比如食物、宗教等。
  
Day 1:Reception & Checking In
第一天:接待與入住
 
As Rain Forest arrangedin advance, the drivers picked us up at the appointed place,then drove usdirectly to their hotel. They are supposed to pick you up mostly anywherewithin Xi Shuang Ba Na. On the way to hotel, we had nice talk with the driver,who was our driver for the next three days.他們支持西雙版納任意地點接送。雨林的安排下,司機在指定的地方接到我們,并直接載我們來到雨林莊園?;赜炅智f園的路上,我們愉快的認識了陪我們渡過三天旅程的司機。
As soon as we arrivedRain Forest Head Quarter in Meng Song, Meng Hai, we were welcomed warmly by thestaff , we suddenly felt like five star guests. They, were well dressed withminority clothes, moved our luggage to our rooms after checking in. 當我們抵達位于勐海勐宋的雨林總部,我們受到了盛裝的雨林少數(shù)民族小伙伴們的熱烈歡迎,辦妥了入住手續(xù)后,他們還幫我們搬運行李回房間,超五星級的感覺。

The Head Quarter occupies 400 mu, has their office building the exhibitionbuilding near the big gate, and warehouse nearby. There is a big swim pool onthe left side, and next to the swim pool, it is the restaurant andCommunication Center.雨林總部雨林莊園占地400畝有雨林的辦公大樓、展廳和超大型倉庫。入口的左邊有一個大游泳池,游泳池的旁邊是餐廳和交流中心。
Yes, indeed, they hotelseems like five star hotel, which we loved it so much. The guest houses are allmade of wood with French windows, surrounded by tea trees, wow, it was my dreamhouse, I whispered to my friends. Oscar, my 5-year-old son, ran everywherechecking excitedly as he always does when he’s in a new place, and told meloudly: Mum, I super like it !是的,事實上,雨林總部看起來更像我們超喜歡的五星級酒店??头坎厣碛诿⒌牟铇渲校渴悄静呐c法式落地窗組成的。哇,這是我夢想中的家的樣子。我輕聲對我的朋友說。奧斯卡,我5歲的兒子,正到處興奮的奔跑著,四處仔細確認,這是他每到一個新地方的習慣。他興奮的大聲告訴我:媽媽,我超級喜歡這里。
After taking shower,and rested a little bit, we headed for the dinner, which started at 6:30 pm. Wewere pleased to take some light tea before dinner in the Communication Center.沐浴之后短暫的休息了一下,我們前往餐廳,餐廳6:30點開始供餐。很高興,趕在晚餐開始前,我們在交流中心享受了一段靜謐的茶時光。
The supper was mainlylocal food, totally organic. We all enjoyed the meal the next three days.What’smore, they have one waiter serving us when we were eating and asked for moreopinion to improve service, I guess we could not asked more after have allthose excellent service and yummy food. 晚餐以當?shù)卦鷳B(tài)有機食物為主。我們都很期待未來三天的每一頓驚喜。更重要的是,當我們開餐后,他們安排了一個服務(wù)員專門為我們服務(wù),在這么優(yōu)質(zhì)的服務(wù)和如此美食下,我想我們不好意思要求更多了。
After dinner, we had awalk around, which gave us chance to see more and love it more.晚飯后,我們圍繞雨林莊園走了一圈,給我們更多的機會仔細觀摩,我們發(fā)現(xiàn),我們更愛它了。

Later we had chance totaste the new black tea named 流霞(flowing clouds). Iliked its caramel aroma and bright golden color, very suitable for earlyspring.隨后,我們有幸得以品嘗了一款叫流霞(流動云)的紅茶新品。我喜歡它的焦糖香,金黃明亮的湯色,和早春超搭。
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Day 2: Visiting  Meng Song
第二天:訪問勐宋
 
We woke up very earlythe next morning, the morning was so beautiful with light fog ,  talentedsingers singing in the trees. Each breathing in seemed bring us so much freshenergy that we forget to breath out.第二天,我們起得特別早。非常美麗的光霧彌漫,有才華的精靈在樹上婉轉(zhuǎn)歌唱。呼吸之間,每一口的吸入,給我們帶來了源源不斷的能量,讓我們舍不得呼出。
After breakfast, wewere invited to visit the exhibition room, where represents all the teas theyhave made since 2012, till now they have launched over 60 collections of teas.With the vivid 3D map, we got to know the ancient tea mountains ranging in XiShuangBaNa.Till now Rain Forest has 100 primary factories all over different tea villages,with convenience to process fresh tea in time.早餐后,我們被邀請去展覽中心,那里陳列著他們2012年以來至今生產(chǎn)的60款配調(diào)茶與生動立體的3 D沙盤地圖,我們看到了西雙版納包含的所有古茶山。到目前為止,雨林建有100個古茶坊分布在古茶山村寨,以便能夠及時收集新鮮的茶葉。
Then we could not wait to get on the pickup trucks , heading to the teamountains. All of us felt surprised that it was so considerate of Rain Forestthat they had even prepared us a bottle of tea, even for kids. We tried itright away, it tasted very nice without any bitterness. As usual I do notrecommend brew any tea in such bottle because it may ruin the infusion.However, due to the good quality of ancient tree tea, Its flavor was out of myexpectation although there lacked of much aroma. I heard that they preparedbottle for each one so we would not bring any water, which bottle will ruin theenvironment.然后我們乘坐著皮卡車,開始了茶山行。茶山的師傅為我們每人準備了一保溫杯的茶,讓我們在享受貼心服務(wù)的同時分外感動。我們馬上打開嘗嘗,味道一如既往的很好沒有苦澀。一般來講,我不建議在這樣的瓶子沖泡任何茶,因為它可能影響茶的味道。然而,由于高品質(zhì)的古樹茶,它的味道卻不受影響。我聽說他們準備給每一個人都準備了這樣一個杯子。這樣一來,在茶山上,我們不會帶著任何水瓶以致破壞環(huán)境。
All the way to Meng Song refined factory, the guide introduced us Rain Forestcompany and further project via interphone which was installed in every pickuptruck. Rain Forest was going to start their Project phrase II with total areaof 400 mu(26.8 hectares), including conference room for 6,000 people max. Thereare 114 villages in Meng Song Town, and live mainly on tea. We also saw largesugarcane field for making sugar and banana trees all over one side of themountain. 在去勐宋精制廠的路上,帶隊師傅通過每一個安裝在皮卡車上的對講機給我們介紹了雨林古茶坊的情況。雨林將要開始他們的總面積達400畝(26.8公頃)的二期項目,可以解決這里6000人的就業(yè)。勐宋鎮(zhèn)共有114個村寨,生活主要來源在茶。山的另一邊,我們也看到種植著用來制糖的大甘蔗和香蕉樹。
The uphill mountain road was very difficulty, Oscar enjoyed it a lot, he saidhe was taking roller coaster. It took around 1 hour to the refined factory, wehad nice tea there before lunch, and especially enjoyed the little trail downto the primary factory, it is brilliant since people can have a little funthere.山路崎嶇,奧斯卡卻很享受,他說他像坐過山車一樣。我們花了約1小時間到達精制工廠,午餐前我們喝了美味的茶,在山間林蔭的飲茶亭尤其享受,這是有才情的人所感受到的小樂趣。
It was too pity that we came early that we could not see the process of makingtea, because last winter was too cold. Rain Forest adopted only Copper potsinstead of iron pots , whichare the most satisfactory of all to kill green due tothe good character of holding and spread the heat well,and their tin lining does not discolor tea. Theyalso take advantage of the whole traditional skill of making black tea Meng HaiTea Factory sued , once Feng Shao Qiu invented.遺憾的是我們到來是在早春,因為去年冬天太冷,我們不能親眼看到制茶過程。雨林采用銅鍋殺青,而不是鐵鍋,銅鍋最令人滿意的是它導熱快且受熱均勻。他們傳承的整個傳統(tǒng)技藝是由勐海茶廠馮邵秋發(fā)明。
After lunch we had little break and continued to go further. We had to walkafter the pickup trucks drove us to the trail. We walked through an ancient teapark, any tea tree at hand can be a few hundred years old, and we were happy tosee that it was well preserved and managed.午飯后稍作休息,往下個目的地進發(fā)。皮卡車開了一段停下來后我們徒步繼續(xù)。我們走過一個古茶園,每一棵棵茶樹都有幾百年的光陰,我們有幸能見到它們完好的留存至今。

After that we kept walking, and stopped by a transitional tea tree with ageover than 1000 years. There is different from planted tea trees, and the yellowskin has self-protective function of driving bugs away. The famous one is inBangWai village, along Lan Cang river.之后,我們一直走,在一棵過渡型千年茶樹邊駐足,它不同于栽培型茶樹,黃色的樹皮有天然的屏障作用,可以躲避那些來自害蟲的傷害。最著名一棵位于瀾滄江邊的邦崴村。
Our destination was to visiting the real tea king, it is a planted tea treewith age of 1300 years old, owned by Rain Forest. I heard lots of rumors thattea from such trees is super expensive, and it was almost impossible to buysuch tea. While Rain Forest seldom sell it, they reward to the whole seller orthe most wonder employee, that is really encouraging. Such trees are so rareand precious, protecting them is the only way to show our gratitude nature hasgifted us. 我們的目標是訪問一棵屬于雨林有1300樹齡的千年茶王樹。我聽聞這棵樹上的茶十分昂貴的,也幾乎不會進行售賣。而雨林古茶坊以此來獎勵最優(yōu)秀的經(jīng)銷商,真是令人鼓舞。這樣的樹非常罕見,珍貴,保護他們也是我們感恩大自然的賦予。
 
The trail was very tough and steep sometimes, no hard to see that it’s new pathwhich Rain Forest explored lately especially for the Tea Tour. The environmentis very nice, totally primeval, Nicoline was every so excited, she said shewished to bring everything home, and climb all the trees.山的小道很艱難,有時陡峭,最新路徑便是雨林茶山行所開辟。環(huán)境很好,完全原始,Nicoline是如此興奮,她說她希望把這一切都帶回家,還有可以爬的樹。
 
The whole trekking took around 2 hours, we almost were exhausted but all likedit a lot. We had a little break after coming back to refined factory, andvisited the refined workshop. Those workers were busy, seemed not interruptedby our visiting. We noticed that they put better tea on surface of cake andcurious about how could they grantee the consistent quality since theydeclaimed that the whole cake the same quality, and were told that theyactually picked the better-look tea leaves from same blending loose tea, whichmakes sense.整個徒步旅行花了兩個小時,我們幾乎筋疲力盡卻也樂在其中。小息片刻后我們回到精制廠,參觀了精制車間。這些工人聚精會神的工作,并沒有因為我們的訪問便中斷。我們注意到,他們把更好的茶撒在表面的茶餅。出于好奇便問他們怎么保證茶葉質(zhì)量是一樣的,他們的解釋,整個茶餅是相同的質(zhì)量,實際上選擇的都是一樣的茶葉,只是把比較好看的放在表面,這是有道理的。
It was near 5 ‘ o clock after we went back to the head quarter. After dinner,we tried the cake name tea tour(茶山行), which was madeespecially for the activity. This cake had flowery flavor, long-lasting sweetand thirsty quenching mouth feeling , making the tea trip more memorable.近5小時后我們回到一開始的地方。晚飯后,我們嘗試雨林古茶坊茶山行紀念餅,這是有意義的活動。這款茶華麗的味道,甘甜持久,生津明顯的感覺,這滋味使茶山行也變得愈加美妙。
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Day 3:Visiting Bu Lang Tea Mountain and Factories.
第3天:訪問布朗茶山和古茶坊
 
The third day we proceeded to visit BuLang Mountain, where there are legendarypuer teas, like Lao Ban Zhang, Lao Man E. 第三天,我們繼續(xù)進行訪問布朗山,那里有經(jīng)典的普洱茶 比如老班章、老曼峨。
 
Today we spent lots of time on pickup trucks, passed by the seventh primaryfactory at Ba Ka Nan village. There was one of the three biggest flatland inMeng Hun, where most of the Dai people live. The way to BuLang was quite nicethat Oscar felt even bored, thanks to precious ancient tea, most of the teafarmers have better life now, and government also built concrete road for them.今天我們在皮卡車上坐了很長時間,通過巴卡南村寨(雨林古茶坊)第七坊。勐混有最大的三塊平原之一,很多傣族人住在那里。布朗山路不好,甚至讓奧斯卡感到無聊。因為寶貴的古樹茶,為了大多數(shù)的茶農(nóng)民更好的生活的以茶為生,政府還建造新的道路。
It took another hour till arrived at Lao Man E village, where the twenty thirdprimary factory located. We all felt hungry after 2 hours’ driving, and couldnot wait to grab some lunch. 又花了一個小時到達老曼峨村寨,那里的工廠有三分之二的產(chǎn)量。2個小時的車旅,讓我們在那迫不及待地吃了午餐。
Lao Man E is the oldest village on BuLang mountains, the earliest record aboutit can be dated back to 1300 years ago, it is the origin of the whole villagesat Bu Lang mountain. Right now there are over 140 families there, and believein Buddha. The village had changed a lot, new buildings were everywhere, andsome of them were under construction. 老曼峨是最古老的村寨在布朗山脈,對此最早的記錄可以回到1300年前,這是整個村寨在布朗山的起源?,F(xiàn)在有超過140個家庭那里,他們相信佛。村里改變了很多,新建筑是無處不在,還有一些是在建。
Lao Man E puer tea is very rare, special and limited. It is powerful similar asLao Ban Zhang, and has very good long last after-taste sweet,clear and goldenbright infusion. The average price of ancient tea tree is around US$ 200 forone cake(357 grams).老曼峨普洱茶是非常罕見、特別及有限的。它在茶友心中的份量如老班章一樣,有很美味的漫長回甘,金黃明亮的茶湯。古樹茶的平均價格約為200美元的一個茶餅(357克)。
 
On the way to Lao Ban Zhang, we passing by Xin Ban Zhang, we could see that therechanged a lot because of the ancient teas last years. I agree with Rain Forestthat they do not build any factory in Lao Ban Zhang village, it is too costly.Can you image there even has bank in such deep mountains, I heard that the cashflow could be over one million RMB each day during tea - picking season. Theirstory of getting rich can be a miracle, the only reason is the unique tea. Youwould never forget its taste flavor if you tried one, I mean the authentic puretea. Of course, few common people could afford such luxury. The buyers mostlyseek Lao Ban Zhang for collection, chasing its future value. It is typicaledible antique.在去老班章的路上,我們經(jīng)過新班章,我們可以看到因為古樹茶的原因這里有了很大改變。我同意雨林,他們不構(gòu)建任何工廠在老班章村,那太昂貴。你能想象在這樣的深山脈甚至還有銀行,我聽說,在茶葉生產(chǎn)季節(jié)這里的現(xiàn)金流每天可能超過一百萬元人民幣。他們的致富故事可能是一個奇跡,唯一的原因是獨特的茶。如果你嘗試一個那是你永遠不會忘記的味道,我的意思是真實的純茶。當然,一些對此常見的人們可以負擔得起這樣的奢侈品。買方主要尋求老班章陳化,追逐未來的價值。這是典型的食用古董。
We were supposed to visit Ban Pen village, and just stopped by this time sincethey had not started to making tea. We had a break at He Kai, walking into thedeep ancient tea park.我們本想去參觀班盆寨,這次正好順路經(jīng)過,這個時間他們還沒開始做茶。我們在賀開有一個旅程,走進深山古茶園。
 
He Kai owns the largest ancient tea park with area of 16,200 mus(1,085hectares), at elevations between 1400 - 1750 meters. Tea tress range 300 - 1400years old.  The environment is well - protected that crab feet, a Chinesemedicine, lives on those tea trees. 
賀開擁有最大的面積16200畝(1085公頃)的古茶園,海拔在1400年至1750米。樹齡范圍300 - 1400歲。環(huán)境保護的很好,中醫(yī)藥材都長在那些茶樹上。
Such a long day’sdriving, it was a pleasant time to drink cups of tea after dinner. We discussedabout reluctant departure tomorrow, and all hoped that we would join themprocessing tea next time. 這樣一天的漫長車途,晚飯后喝杯茶便是愉快的時間。我們都在說明天真不愿離開,我們都希望下次能加入他們制作茶。
Thanks to Rain Forest, we had an memorable and meaningful tea tour, whichhelped us understand ancient puer tea better, and cherish each cup of tea more.As an super puer lover, I understood the receipt was the key, while Istill wished to get more information about the teas which they werereluctant to reveal. If there would have some tea ceremony , or tea food, ortea festival, that would be perfect although it was almost be.因為雨林,我們有一個令人難忘的而有意義的茶山行,使我們更好的了解古樹普洱茶,更多珍惜每杯茶。作為一個超級普洱茶愛好者,我理解制茶是關(guān)鍵,而我還希望得到更多關(guān)于茶的信息,他們不太方便透露。如果能有一些茶道,或茶點,或茶節(jié)日,這將是完美的,盡管現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)快是這樣了。
Now I am excited about Pu'erh tea tour in April, are you in?
現(xiàn)在我很期待今年4月的茶山行,你來嗎?

責編: 米渣
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